Watching the eagles soar at Sandia Crest

The unmajestic sound – a squirrel-like chittering – tells us that’s a majestic eagle swooping above the Crest Trail. Two, actually.

We’ve claimed one of the finest snack spots within driving distance of Albuquerque, a limestone shelf under a tree. Behind us, the historic stone Kiwanis Cabin commands the tip of a promontory. North of us, the Kiwanis Meadow glows green. In front of us, the Crest Trail flirts with the cliff’s edge. The San Pedro and Ortiz mountains slope beyond. Two nights of rain washed the sky clear as a bell.

It’s no wonder everybody and their dog – literally – is out here.

The 1.5-mile stretch of the Crest Trail from the Crest House to the Sandia Peak Tram’s upper terminal gets the most traffic of any trail on the mountain, according to Mike Coltrin’s Sandia Mountain Hiking Guide.

Steps from your car, or the tram, you’ll find a jaw-dropping cliffside view above 10,000 feet where the mountain just plunges away.

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WHAT ON EARTH IS THIS PIPE DOING HERE

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Or you’ll walk into Albuquerque’s little slice of cathedral forest and breathe in wet fir, the greatest scent on the tree menu.

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My husband could have hiked this trail twice in the time I took checking out every overlook. Slick limestone, muddy tree roots and making way for other humans kept us alert. The accents and languages we heard were nearly as diverse as the scenery.

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Most excellent fossil I’ve seen in the Sandias

Somehow we ended up hiking a forest road most of the way back from the tram terminal. Fewer people, fewer views, more butterflies. I aimed my camera at five or six fritillaries, but wasn’t fast enough to capture a single one.

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One more pass through the deep dark forest, uphill this time, and city and mountains and sky open before us again.

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You don’t have to go far to get far.

Hike length: 5 miles

Difficulty: moderate

Wildlife spotted/heard: golden eagles, crow, violet-green swallows, swifts, nuthatches, least chipmunk, butterflies, horny toad, deer and fawn (on the Sandia Crest Highway)

Trail traffic: plenty

 

New views open up at Juan Tomas Open Space

This overlook wasn’t here before. A halo of stumps circles the promontory. Forest thinning must have revealed it.

We climb lavender granite, just behind a chipmunk. A Western bluebird swoops into pine. Waves of forest break below us, all the way to South Sandia Peak.

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A sapling grows from a water hole in the rock

This is Juan Tomas Open Space, a city-owned property south of Tijeras. We’ll see no other hikers, but probably a dozen mountain bikers. The rolling hills offer plenty of room to move over.

Ponderosas hover above, their enormity granting needed shade. In meadows, green competes with green, grass and wildflowers waist-high. Smooth logs rest in a trail rut, washed there by the most recent rain.

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Alligator juniper

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We disagree at the same junction as always on which trail leads back. As always, we find our way.

Driving down Oak Flat Road, I think I see my first Western diamondback, but it’s just a gopher snake. A four-foot gopher snake. My husband is compelled to rescue all road snakes, living or dead, so I put on my hazards while he jumps out, finds a branch to pick up the snake with, and relocates him (or her).

It’s my first live snake sighting in the West.

Even the most familiar locations in the forest have so many surprises.

Hike length: 4 miles

Difficulty: easy-moderate

Trail traffic: moderate

Wildlife spotted/heard: nuthatch, flycatchers, Western bluebird, sparrows, lizard, beetles, chipmunk, gopher snake, butterflies

 

 

Cienega-Armijo loop: an eyeful of birds, butterflies and Abert’s squirrels

An hour in, we can finally see.

Many days in the forest, birds blur at the edge of our peripheral vision, nothing discernible except “small,” maybe “brown.”

Now, sitting in a grove of ponderosa pines on Armijo Trail, nuthatches resolve into focus. Once they do, we see them everywhere: sailing from tree to tree, corkscrewing up and down trunks. We identify their testy chirps.

“Small” will resolve itself at other points today into woodpeckers, two sparrows in a spindly pinon, a flicker brushing a ponderosa’s crown.

Butterflies emerge, too: the orange and pink of painted ladies, swallowtails highlighted blue and black. Tassel-tailed Abert’s squirrels wrap around tree trunks, gallop up the trail like dogs.

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Abe, the blurry Abert’s squirrel
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Alligator juniper

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When we began this hike, along Cienega Trail’s spring, a riot of wildflowers attracted so many butterflies it was tough to zero in on any one.

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Before I could see anything, I had to hear. How a grumpy person’s heavy footfalls on a rocky trail sound just like grumbling.

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I’ve had a low-grade grouch on all week – exactly the amount of time since our last soaking rain. Exactly the amount of time since the humidity rose and some of this year’s epic grass pollen washed away.

Building above the ponderosas: the kind of towering cloud that could make something happen. Ten, 20, 30 percent chance – these numbers mean little in monsoon season. It will rain when it will rain.

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Until then, the abundance of this year’s growing things burn my eyes – but I can see.

Hike length: 5 miles

Difficulty: moderate

Wildlife spotted/heard: woodpeckers, nuthatches, flicker, sparrows, lizard, butterflies, cicadas, Abert’s squirrels

Trail traffic: busy at trailhead, none for the first half of the hike

 

Embudito Canyon’s funky, tingly, flowery forest

We try to talk each other out of it.

That huge creature soaring high above the canyon probably isn’t an eagle.

I can’t be sure what I’m seeing, with sweat in my eyes and watercolor Albuquerque levitating below us.

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We’re on Embudito Trail, one of the most beautiful hikes close to the city – one I’d normally never do in summer. Its stunning first two-plus miles scale steep canyon walls with no trees to speak of. In full summer sun, hiking it feels like roasting on a griddle.

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Want shade on the first section of this trail? Better find a boulder.

Thankfully, it’s unusually cool this morning, thanks to last night’s monsoon rain. It’s also unusually humid.

We lose the not-eagle in the cloud smudges. We round a corner and realize we’d taken our break just short of an outstanding overlook, forested peaks and ridges on all sides.

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Then we climb into them for the first time.

Two hours into our hike, everything that came before evaporates. Ponderosas coalesce into a canopy. The temperature drops 15 degrees. Aspens shoot up from mossy two-ton boulders. Yarrow and penstemon narrow the trail from both sides.

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Forest funk fills the air. My arms tingle from the cool breeze and the phytochemicals.

I have never felt a sensation like it. I tell my husband.

“Is it just your left arm?”

“No, it’s both. Why?”

“Because that would be a heart attack.”

This is not that. I don’t know what this forest is manufacturing, but I just finished “The Overstory” and I know my blood pressure is probably improving every time I inhale.

The grade of the trail lessens through the forest, but then the switchbacks begin again. The entire trail is rated difficult. It’s midday and the forecast cloud cover is nowhere to be seen (I knew I was rolling the dice with that and I might lose.)

It’s time to haul my tired legs back down the griddle.

Good thing I have a lungful of mysterious forest compounds to propel me.

Hike length: 7 miles

Difficulty: difficult

Trail traffic: lots until you reach the forest

Wildlife spotted/heard: quail, curve-billed thrasher, hawk, butterflies, cicadas, bluejays, horny toad, lizards, velvet ant, crows. And after consulting the bird book on what an eagle looks like from below (I’ve only seen one once for sure), I think there’s a good chance that was a golden eagle.