Gutierrez Canyon, changed and unchanging

6-17-20

Green tangles green.

Oak leaves pulse chlorophyll. Juniper twists. Ponderosa towers.

The Sandias roll emerald behind the trees.

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I feel safe here.

Meditating at home this morning, knowing I would hike alone today at Gutierrez Canyon Open Space in the East Mountains, all I could think about was rattlesnakes.

But nothing rattles. Spotted lizards’ long tails slide through leaves.

I seek the fantastic overlook I’ve enjoyed here before. But new “private property – stay on trail” signs dot the upper path. Nearby, a dog barks so loud and long I fear he might faint.

The overlook eludes me. The valley a glimpse, instead of everything.

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I see only five people. I stop mistaking bees and flies for human voices.

Heat builds. So does a breeze that remembers cool.

Cooper’s hawk, phoebe, butterfly.

I find no harm here.

Hike length: 5.5+ miles

Difficulty: moderate

Trail traffic: low

Wildlife seen/heard: phoebe, spotted towhee, Cooper’s hawk, butterflies, beetles, grasshoppers, doves, lizards

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Stealing back time at David Canyon

6/11/20

I laze under a huge ponderosa.

Ten a.m. sun blazes, but here, cool air swirls around me.

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Meadow grass waves. Bird notes shape a chorus.

I will sit here as long as I want.

I quit looking at my watch as soon as I left the trailhead. Instead, my eyes trace David Canyon’s far wall, the Manzano Mountains’ northern peaks; flit from woodpecker to chickadee, high bough to forest floor.

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Then I sit till I’m sat out.

I walk the dusty track. Long stretches of naked meadow between pines. Wildflowers cup a side trail. A UFO-like structure squats in the grass. Water tank?

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The ponderosas come closer together, closer, and a rock grotto appears. Lavender butterflies the size of a fingernail dance at my feet.

The last crossroads. I sit again.

Two chipmunks dart from a tangle of growth. They chase each other around a tree trunk, touch noses. One scampers into a field. The other huddles in a rock, munches something it’s saved there.

To watch a thought unfurl, curl in on itself.

To observe a scene.

To have canyon walls block the messages’ internal ping.

To move until I’m wilted.

I have stayed off the trails and in my neighborhood to help stop the spread of Covid-19.

It was the best decision I could come to. I stuck with it for two and a half months. And then I could feel myself forgetting feeling, synapses sputtering.

So slowly, carefully, early in the morning, in the middle of the week, with multiple backup destinations in case the trailhead was crowded, with a mask, within 25 miles of home, I go back out.

I sit, and see, and hear.

Time has collapsed in on itself.

I spend what I can here.

Hike length: 5 miles

Difficulty: moderate

Trail traffic: almost none

Wildlife spotted/heard: crows, doves, chickadees, mountain bluebird, blue jay, nuthatch, redheaded woodpecker, horny toad, lizards, chipmunks, butterflies, beetles, grasshoppers, vulture

 

 

Water’s edge, Calabacillas Arroyo

I back out of the green tunnel. Two can’t pass here. Pull up my mask.

A pleasant fellow with a camera exits.

How long do droplets linger in the air? Eight minutes? 18?

Meander eight minutes, return, plunge in.

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The green tunnel

Invaders swallow me. Thicket sucks water from the ground. Yet the Russian olive smells so sweet, and the tamarisk branches gleam so red.

Mask up, in case branches others have pushed through thwack me in the mouth (one does.)

All to see water. Sand ledge, Rio Grande bank.

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Bird music, artist unknown.

Tamarisk tangles. Lizards scramble.

Wander arroyo. Sandbar opens wide. Heat rises, river gleams, mountains loom.

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No need to wade through the thicket to reach water.

It was right there the whole time.

 

Hike length: 3.8 miles

Difficulty: easy

Trail traffic: very light

Wildlife spotted: robin, cottontail, butterflies, dragonflies, flycatchers, goldfinches, lizards, doves, nuthatch

I’m using these best practices for responsible outdoor recreation during Covid-19 as my guide, and was overjoyed to find this quiet corner of the bosque nearby.

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What Day Is It?

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Water eddies an object.

Duck becomes deer

becomes volcanic rock.

Here in this ditch,

a chunk of

the West Mesa.

Things I don’t know when

I’ll see again

flash before me:

meadow,

overlook,

aspen grove.

They meet

what I’ve just seen:

dragonfly,

rabbit,

roadrunner,

hummingbird.

Where?

What day?

How long?

 

 

Goodbye to the trails, for now

I knew it was the last time.

Knew it as I rolled past the first trailhead. Eight cars already.

But there’s so much space once you get out there – 

A ninth car pulled up.

No.

Knew it when I arrived at the second trailhead.

Empty.

Had I missed a closure order? I searched the Internet. Nothing.

Knew it as I watched and listened to bluebirds and robins at the overlook.

Knew it as I counted the people I passed.

26.

They had reached the trail from other access points, or started after me.

The trail was wide. I could see who was coming and move aside, give us both six feet of distance.

But I knew the calculations would cease to add up.

The longer this lasts, the more people will be out here, unless trails are closed. It will become harder to keep distance, avoid putting myself and others at risk.

The beautiful 20-mile drive from my house to the mountains had become an ethical minefield, my body a potential vector for the spread of disease into a different community.

Of course, I knew places so far out the risk of meeting anyone would be low.

But the other risks of a remote trek right now are too great.

One misstep by a backcountry skier last week touched off a search and rescue that put more than 50 members of a rural community at risk of COVID-19 exposure.

So I knew it was the last hike, until social distancing ends.

Goodbye mountains.

Goodbye bluebirds.

Goodbye pinon and juniper.

Goodbye, euphoria of a long solo hike.

Goodbye to one more outlet for the stress of leading a newsroom covering the hardest, most important story of our lives.

I said all those goodbyes.

Yet all week, I grasped for any way I could keep hiking.

I unraveled my decision, made it again.

But maybe – 

Who am I if I don’t go to the mountains every weekend?

I need to keep my mountain conditioning, so I can jump right back in when this ends. Like it never happened.

But there will come a point when clinicians have to decide who will get lifesaving measures and who will not. I do not want to put myself or anyone else on either side of that equation.

There will never be a time when it is like this never happened.

Friday morning, the city sent a press release, urging residents to use lesser-known hiking trails instead of the jam-packed bosque and foothills.

Could I find a miracle in this list, a place where I could ethically go?

One trail listed was the quiet place with the empty parking lot where I’d seen 26 people.

One was the remote trail where, a week earlier, I’d seen 40 people.

I had to assume all would see their traffic at least double.

I could not in good conscience increase that number by one more.

I would walk only places I could reach on foot from my home until social distancing ends.

I live in the Rio Grande valley, bursting green with spring. I can choose paths with relatively low risk of crime. I can travel wide acequias with plenty of room to distance.

I wish I could tell you it didn’t feel like loss.

All my worries about walking in the city came true Saturday. Everyone was on the acequias. I pinballed like a video-game character to keep six feet of distance.

Runners appalled me.

I veered onto the lip of a ditch to avoid a runner coming from behind who wouldn’t yield six feet.

“I was looking at that wisteria!” she chirped.

That will be such comfort when we’re fighting over the last ventilator in New Mexico.

I spent most of the walk spitting fury, near tears, wondering if leaving my house for outdoor exercise could ever be safe or ethical during this time.

Sunday morning I woke thinking of a small open space in the East Mountains that hadn’t been mentioned by name in the city press release.

Wouldn’t it be safer…quieter…less crowded…

A column by the director of New Mexico Wild in the morning paper gave me the same answer, the only answer.

Stay hyperlocal. Walk in your neighborhood. Now is not the time for a mountain trek.

Sunday morning the acequias felt like church. Traffic on the paths had dropped 60 percent from the day before. Maybe everyone was streaming a religious service, or at Costco fighting over toilet paper.

On a quiet, green path, a splash. Two ducks emerged from the water, clambered onto the ditch bank, waddled around the new world.

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I’ll be tempted, again, by the illusion that there’s another choice.

At some point, I’ll give out, take a day off midweek.

It’s Wednesday morning. Maybe no one will be out there – 

No.

It couldn’t hurt to just drive out and see – 

No.

Goodbye, mountains.

Goodbye, bluebirds.

Goodbye, pinon.

Goodbye, juniper.

Goodbye, long solo hikes.

Goodbye.

Goodbye.

Goodbye.

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Angry Raisin seeks space at Golden Open Space: A social distancing story

Ten miles off Highway 14, down a long, narrow, twisty road, a full hour’s drive from Albuquerque, remote land beckons.

My little car crests a hill above the parking lot. It has at least 10 cars in it.

I burst out laughing.

I’ve been down La Madera Road to Golden Open Space in the East Mountains at least five times. Four of those times we saw no other humans.

But every human in the world right now has the same need: to get the hell out of the house.

Last night, one week into social distancing, I flung a still-whirring electric toothbrush against the wall. It felt good, but nothing broke, so I went outside and hurled a commemorative glass from my college’s homecoming against the side of the house.

The sound of glass breaking brought enough catharsis that I decided I could get through one more night in my house.

Yesterday I saw a tweet: Your quarantine name is how you feel right now plus the last thing you ate from the cupboard.

I am Angry Raisin, in desperate need of a safely socially distant distraction.

My hiking and life partner will not be traveling long distances on his left foot for a while. So I headed out for a solo hike at Golden Open Space, which turned out far from solo.

One moment I’m marveling at the fresh snow coating the Sandia Peak ski runs a few miles away.

The next I’m calculating how I will stay six feet away from all these people and their dogs. Thinking I should go much farther afield next weekend, farther than I should go alone, and who can I invite to go with me?

I drop into rust-red hills. Step six feet off the trail to let a man and his dog pass. Notice I’m right above the magical red-and-blue mystery arroyo. Clamber down, thinking I’ll shortcut to where the trail crosses the arroyo.

But that could take all day, as the trail slithers through a warren of arroyos. I retrace my steps, climb back up the bank to the trail, look down at the arroyo’s colors from above. Step aside for people and dogs and bikes.

Colors pop under bright blue sky, puffs of cloud. Fallen juniper berries glow lavender on red ground.

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I reach the big, gnarly Arroyo Seco, the deep canyon yawning from the overlooks I passed. I cross Arroyo Seco for the first time. Navigate the trail up through red rock with white polka dots, deep-purple soil under my feet.

I’m alone on this side of the arroyo. I reach a mesa, break for lunch, ravenous. I’m looking directly at Tetilla Peak, the tan and black of the Dome Wilderness. Fresh snow coats Redondo Peak in the Jemez, the Sangre de Cristos.

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Wind whooshes. Birds chirp, tweet, caw. No other sounds.

Back on the near side of the arroyo, I stop at a plaque with a poem on it. It instructs me to take in my surroundings, read the poem, then sit or stand in quiet and use my senses. I am the creator of the experience of the art installation, it says.

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I look, listen, read the poem, close my eyes.

A breeze blows my hat brim back. I see only sun on the backs of my eyelids.

This sensation is what I seek, the feeling that the sun and warmth come with me when I go back into the house.

I open my eyes.

“Hoo!” yells a cyclist huffing up the hill I just huffed.

Time to move.

The smell of spring fills my nostrils. The smell that has comforted me, delighted me, for decades.

My mom fills our yard with it.

It brightened my desk all week during endless hours of reporting scary, heartbreaking news.

Daffodils.

In a pinon-juniper woodland, many miles from the nearest flowerbed, I smell daffodils.

It’s not the first hallucination I’ve had out here.

It will get me through another night in captivity.

Hike length: 7+ miles

Difficulty: moderate

Trail traffic: for this place, OMG

Wildlife spotted/heard: mountain chickadees, pinyon jays, crows, robins, Western wood-pewees, dead tarantula

O ye of little faith: Del Agua Trail after a storm will give you something to believe in

“Hear that?”

I do.

It rushes, trickles, gurgles.

I shouldn’t be surprised. We are, after all, on Del Agua Trail, at the north end of the Sandias.

But I live in the desert. Where a wet spot that flows a few weeks a year merits the name “spring.” Where even a rare perennial spring might be just a drip.

The day after a storm dumped half an inch of rain, we’ve found a gusher.

It sounds like a waterfall. It’s not. It’s a stream. It runs for at least half a mile. There, the trail and the stream cease crossing each other and become one. We turn around.

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The stand of cottonwoods where the stream lives is in the center of this photo

Miles inside granite, this stream nourishes a stand of cottonwoods, reeds, grasses. Birds call. Butterflies flutter.

Exodus 17: Strike the rock, and water will come out of it, so that the people may drink.

Tomorrow morning, Sunday, my church will have no services. It probably won’t have services for weeks, as public health officials urge us to avoid gatherings, keep “social distance,” and slow the spread of the new coronavirus.

I have been a churchgoer since I was a little girl. Nine years ago I left the faith I grew up in, but I didn’t leave church. I walked out those doors one Sunday and into other doors the next Sunday, and the next, until I found a church that felt like home.

Four walls do not make a faith. But without them, do I really have it?

I didn’t believe there was water in this canyon until I saw it, which is the definition of not-faith.

I sit beside the unbelievable stream. My husband leaps onto a giant fallen cottonwood trunk and walks down it.

He has leapt onto many less-advisable things with no consequences. But today his luck runs out. His foot slips and he lands with all his weight on his left ankle. A sprain.

Our car sits more than three miles away.

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Tree my better half should not have walked down

If we can get to the bottom of this steep trail, I can walk the two miles of forest road back to the car and drive it down to the trailhead to pick him up. My little car and this rough road are not a great match, but I’ve driven it out here before.

We navigate the trail around ridges, through arroyos. I look back at my husband. He doesn’t want to throw me off balance on the narrow trail. Instead, he leans on one of my hiking poles for support, favors his right leg and braces himself on rock with his right hand.

He catches my eye and grins, despite the pain.

Fifteen years ago, when we were dating, we traveled from the East Coast to visit his family in Santa Fe. My husband and his dad got violently ill with a stomach bug. As weak as my husband was, as bad as he felt, he still smiled at me and spoke with kindness.

That’s when I knew.

I catch a glimpse of a vault toilet far below. I know this toilet; I call it “toilet in paradise,” because of its beautiful setting. At the trailhead.

If I can see the trailhead, we can reach it.

Here I go again, believing only what I can see.

Still, it feels like faith.

Hike length: 6+ miles

Difficulty: moderate

Wildlife spotted/heard/smelled: Western bluebirds, butterflies, skunk, pinyon jays, crow, box elder beetles

Trail traffic: light

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