Haunting a river’s ghost at Valle de Oro

I could cross the Rio Grande here and not get wet.

I stand on the riverbank at Valle de Oro National Wildlife Refuge. The river’s all but dry in this spot. One small channel of water courses through it.

Water flows further south, but in places it’s only an inch deep.

And still, constant bird music.

A great blue heron stands on a sandbar, then lifts off.

Ducks spring from the bank, honking.

Sandhill cranes coast above, creaking like a rusty hinge in the wind.

Creatures upon creatures trace the river’s drying veins, find nourishment.

We have made this hot, dry world with our thirsty vehicles, our plastic packaging.

Yet we can make space for these creatures, too.

The refuge, carved out of an industrial area, ever changing. This summer they closed the refuge’s dirt roads to vehicles so the old pastures can revert to wetlands. To reach the bosque now requires a shadeless 2-mile walk from the refuge’s entrance.

The refuge’s visitor center, under construction.

Here in Albuquerque’s South Valley, air quality can reach unhealthy levels. Dust and dirt from the area’s industrial operations often hang in the air, while my neighbors and I breathe freely further north.

But a river refuge, even a drying one, gives all of us creatures a space to breathe.

Hike length: 5.6 miles

Difficulty: easy

Trail traffic: very light

Wildlife spotted/heard: great blue herons, sandhill cranes, geese, ducks, butterflies, grasshoppers, coyote, American dipper, swallows

Nothing gold can stay: Post-peak aspens, Sandia fall

Gold coins shiver in the wind.

So do I.

The aspens on the Sandia Crest slopes usually glow yellow the first Saturday in October.

Today one yellow patch blankets the mountain. Around it, leaves have tipped past yellow to gold, or fallen, leaving trunks naked.

Who knows why? Maybe that bizarre freeze just after Labor Day hastened the leaves’ change. Or maybe the lack of anything else resembling seasonal temperatures, or precipitation, left the aspens confused about when to do their thing.

It still looks the way fall looks up here: blue, green and gold.

Clear above and below. Beyond that, haze from fires a thousand miles away. It’s begun to feel like a permanent condition.

Most days, the fire hydrant of Cabezon Peak would loom large from here. Today it’s a shadow of a thumb.

It still feels the way fall feels up here: warm and cold, light and shadow.

But no year, no month, no day is just an anomaly anymore.

The changes in our climate reshape even a world of sun and stone.

Hike length: 6 miles

Route: Survey Trail to 10K Trail overlook

Difficulty: moderate

Trail traffic: light-moderate

Wildlife spotted/heard: deer and chipmunk on Crest Highway; squirrels, dove, jays, crow, hawk, dark-eyed junco, dusky flycatchers, flickers