Nothing gold can stay: Post-peak aspens, Sandia fall

Gold coins shiver in the wind.

So do I.

The aspens on the Sandia Crest slopes usually glow yellow the first Saturday in October.

Today one yellow patch blankets the mountain. Around it, leaves have tipped past yellow to gold, or fallen, leaving trunks naked.

Who knows why? Maybe that bizarre freeze just after Labor Day hastened the leaves’ change. Or maybe the lack of anything else resembling seasonal temperatures, or precipitation, left the aspens confused about when to do their thing.

It still looks the way fall looks up here: blue, green and gold.

Clear above and below. Beyond that, haze from fires a thousand miles away. It’s begun to feel like a permanent condition.

Most days, the fire hydrant of Cabezon Peak would loom large from here. Today it’s a shadow of a thumb.

It still feels the way fall feels up here: warm and cold, light and shadow.

But no year, no month, no day is just an anomaly anymore.

The changes in our climate reshape even a world of sun and stone.

Hike length: 6 miles

Route: Survey Trail to 10K Trail overlook

Difficulty: moderate

Trail traffic: light-moderate

Wildlife spotted/heard: deer and chipmunk on Crest Highway; squirrels, dove, jays, crow, hawk, dark-eyed junco, dusky flycatchers, flickers

Smoke, sun and piƱon nuts at Juan Tabo Canyon

Haze shades each ridge of the Sandias blue.

Wildfire smoke all the way from the West Coast shapes our view of Juan Tabo Canyon today.

But air quality readings are acceptable.

And just past the trailhead, a couple shakes piƱon nuts from tree into basket.

I’ve never seen anyone do that in person. And in all these years of wandering piƱon-juniper hills, inhaling pine sap, I’d never spotted a cone bursting with nuts.

But once I do, they’re everywhere.

High desert and forest formed a truce in this canyon. Sandy arroyos underfoot (literally: we’re on the Sandy Arroyo Trail.) Chamisa, cacti. Oak, juniper and cone-heavy piƱon line the arroyo.

Almost no humans. Mostly flying things.

A hawk haunts the notch atop the canyon wall, hundreds of feet above. Pinyon jays crisscross the drainages. A flash of yellow, maybe a warbler, in an oak. Tarantula hawk above.

The canyon bottom has water, sometimes. Not today. But a small cottonwood thicket stands strong. Patches of dark soil remember being mud.

Haze persists over the mountain, but the sky right above us is now blue.

The midday uphill trek in sand reminds us it’s still summer. The last ridge back up to the car, still in cool shadow this morning, punishes in full sun.

Now, several piƱon-seekers line the path to the trailhead.

It’s still summer in the canyon, but it’s fall in the trees.

Hike length: 6.4 miles

Difficulty: moderate

Trail traffic: light

Wildlife spotted/heard: pinyon jays, doves, hummingbirds, yellow warbler, crows, hawk, nuthatches, tarantula hawk, brave jumper, flightless wasp, velvet ants, lizard, squirrel

The extraordinary ordinary meadow on Survey Trail

The meadow sits just below 10,000 feet elevation on the Survey Trail.

Ordinary, compared to other high mountain meadows. Small. View limited to sturdy firs, spruce, and a speck of the San Pedro Mountains.

Still, you might rest here, if you’ve been walking since the Ellis trailhead.

If you rest here, you might not want to leave.

Wrens flit tree to tree, branch to branch. Two skirmish midair, spinning around each other, a whir of wings.

Hummingbirds hum.

Hawk glides low among trees, seeking the chipmunks and squirrels that have squawked at you all morning.

Smudge in the grass resolves itself: blue-gray horned lizard, dotted black.

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Eventually you pull yourself away, up a steep slope, emerge into light.

A brief wrong turn brought you to this overlook. Limestone Sandia Mountain cake frosted green with aspen. Mount Taylor, 80 miles away, smudges the horizon. The city emerges from a week of wildfire smoke. Fossils whorl the stone you sit on.

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A fellow hiker walks up. Chicago transplant. Blessed, she says, hustling on her mask.

You’ve lingered. You have to hurry uphill to reach the trailhead by 12:45, the appointed “if you don’t hear from me call search and rescue” time you gave your husband.

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Still, you stop for a drink of water in the meadow.

The spot has no name, at least none you know.

But you won’t forget it.

Writing this, you smell fir still.

 

Hike length: 6 miles

Difficulty: moderate

Wildlife spotted/heard: many deer on Sandia Crest Highway, squirrels, Abert’s squirrel, chipmunks, hawk, hummingbird, horned lizard, rock wrens, mountain chickadees, grasshoppers, golden-crowned kinglets

Trail traffic: light-moderate

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Sunday service on South 10K Trail

Sunday morning forest church on the mountain.

Firs, aspen, spruce reach for heaven.

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Bird choir trills, hums, whoops.

Hush falls on tree islands between bright open slopes.

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Harrier glides, watching over all.

Fossils keep those who have gone before with us.

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Gnarled oaks push in, embrace.

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Mushrooms sprout from their hosts, reminding us that all things are connected.

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Squirrels perch on logs, listen to the reading.

Spruce drips sap, evergreen, tangerine.

A group on horseback makes a joyful noise.

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All live, all give, all praise.

 

Hike length: 5 miles

Difficulty: moderate

Trail traffic: very light early, moderate in late morning

Wildlife spotted/heard: squirrels, Abert’s squirrel, harrier, nuthatches, downy woodpecker, mountain chickadee, brown creeper, grasshoppers, dragonflies, hummingbirds

All eyes on us on Challenge Trail

Eight pairs of eyes study us.

Two pairs of eyes scan the ground, lock on green things to munch.

Ten deer stand in a meadow near Nine Mile Picnic Ground.

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They feed. They walk a slow circle around an island of trees. They watch two upright masked creatures watch them.

Ten minutes pass.

The deer walk away, into the spruce and locust and aster.

The humans walk away, thinking of the deer.

 

Hike length: 5.8 miles

Difficulty: moderate

Trail traffic: light

Wildlife spotted/heard: deer, flycatchers, grasshoppers, butterflies, mouse, chipmunks, Abert’s squirrel, crows, raven, brown creeper, mountain chickadees

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Has any trailhead ever looked more inviting?

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Molt – Tecolote Trail, 7-31-20

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all your armor

flaps in the breeze

and you’re still here

 

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Hike length: 5.5 miles (we hiked this trail out and back twice)

Difficulty: moderate

Trail traffic: light-moderate

Wildlife spotted/heard: at least a dozen horned lizards, chickadee, vultures, butterflies, grasshoppers, Abert’s squirrels, deer (on Sandia Crest Highway)

A new mystery every time on North Mystery Trail

Leaves, wildflowers, grasses wrap around me.

Evergreens rise to a peak of punch-me blue.

I sit at the bottom of Madera Canyon on North Mystery Trail.

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We chose this path for its deep canyons, cool breezes and few visitors.

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The tradeoff: we must hike nearly 1,000 feet back uphill to the trailhead on a rare 100% humidity day.

I set the pace – slow, after two long breaks from the trail during Covid-19.

An hour later, I shuffle my jelly legs into the most beautiful meadow in the Sandias, flop under the first flopping tree I see.

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Sky-sized cloud pillows glide over Palomas Peak, spread light and shadow.

A vulture wings. One jay bleats in the evergreen ridge below the peak. Cool air shakes loose.

It’s nearly monsoon o’clock in mountain time. We should get back to the car.

I stand, and my jaw drops (as much as a masked jaw can drop.)

We’d been sitting under a medallion tree. A mystery person took core samples from trees along this trail, then put up medallions naming events from the tree’s date of germination.

What are the odds that one of the few native Mississippians in New Mexico would happen to flop under the “Mississippi, the 20th State Tree?”

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I consider that on the last half mile of the trail. Wild grasses press in close. Trees tangle above. The undergrowth, the humidity and the mask fog my glasses so much the world around me blurs.

It looks like a mountain swamp, with peaks and steep canyons – a Mississippi fever dream that could only be found in New Mexico.

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Hike length: 5+ miles

Difficulty: moderate

Trail traffic: very light

Wildlife spotted/heard: hummingbirds, butterflies, beetles, blue jays, harrier, downy woodpeckers, sparrow, chipmunk, cottontail, crow, vultures, doves

Sulphur Canyon + Faulty Trail

It’s 102 degrees at 1:30 p.m. This hike, 15 days ago, was the last time I felt cool.

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Hike length: 5.5 miles

Difficulty: moderate

Wildlife spotted/heard: butterflies, including swallowtails; hummingbirds; canyon towhees; flycatchers; downy woodpecker; lizards; caterpillar; blue jays

Trail traffic: moderate

Gutierrez Canyon, changed and unchanging

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Green tangles green.

Oak leaves pulse chlorophyll. Juniper twists. Ponderosa towers.

The Sandias roll emerald behind the trees.

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I feel safe here.

Meditating at home this morning, knowing I would hike alone today at Gutierrez Canyon Open Space in the East Mountains, all I could think about was rattlesnakes.

But nothing rattles. Spotted lizards’ long tails slide through leaves.

I seek the fantastic overlook I’ve enjoyed here before. But new “private property – stay on trail” signs dot the upper path. Nearby, a dog barks so loud and long I fear he might faint.

The overlook eludes me. The valley a glimpse, instead of everything.

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I see only five people. I stop mistaking bees and flies for human voices.

Heat builds. So does a breeze that remembers cool.

Cooper’s hawk, phoebe, butterfly.

I find no harm here.

Hike length: 5.5+ miles

Difficulty: moderate

Trail traffic: low

Wildlife seen/heard: phoebe, spotted towhee, Cooper’s hawk, butterflies, beetles, grasshoppers, doves, lizards

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Angry Raisin seeks space at Golden Open Space: A social distancing story

Ten miles off Highway 14, down a long, narrow, twisty road, a full hour’s drive from Albuquerque, remote land beckons.

My little car crests a hill above the parking lot. It has at least 10 cars in it.

I burst out laughing.

I’ve been down La Madera Road to Golden Open Space in the East Mountains at least five times. Four of those times we saw no other humans.

But every human in the world right now has the same need: to get the hell out of the house.

Last night, one week into social distancing, I flung a still-whirring electric toothbrush against the wall. It felt good, but nothing broke, so I went outside and hurled a commemorative glass from my college’s homecoming against the side of the house.

The sound of glass breaking brought enough catharsis that I decided I could get through one more night in my house.

Yesterday I saw a tweet: Your quarantine name is how you feel right now plus the last thing you ate from the cupboard.

I am Angry Raisin, in desperate need of a safely socially distant distraction.

My hiking and life partner will not be traveling long distances on his left foot for a while. So I headed out for a solo hike at Golden Open Space, which turned out far from solo.

One moment I’m marveling at the fresh snow coating the Sandia Peak ski runs a few miles away.

The next I’m calculating how I will stay six feet away from all these people and their dogs. Thinking I should go much farther afield next weekend, farther than I should go alone, and who can I invite to go with me?

I drop into rust-red hills. Step six feet off the trail to let a man and his dog pass. Notice I’m right above the magical red-and-blue mystery arroyo. Clamber down, thinking I’ll shortcut to where the trail crosses the arroyo.

But that could take all day, as the trail slithers through a warren of arroyos. I retrace my steps, climb back up the bank to the trail, look down at the arroyo’s colors from above. Step aside for people and dogs and bikes.

Colors pop under bright blue sky, puffs of cloud. Fallen juniper berries glow lavender on red ground.

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I reach the big, gnarly Arroyo Seco, the deep canyon yawning from the overlooks I passed. I cross Arroyo Seco for the first time. Navigate the trail up through red rock with white polka dots, deep-purple soil under my feet.

I’m alone on this side of the arroyo. I reach a mesa, break for lunch, ravenous. I’m looking directly at Tetilla Peak, the tan and black of the Dome Wilderness. Fresh snow coats Redondo Peak in the Jemez, the Sangre de Cristos.

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Wind whooshes. Birds chirp, tweet, caw. No other sounds.

Back on the near side of the arroyo, I stop at a plaque with a poem on it. It instructs me to take in my surroundings, read the poem, then sit or stand in quiet and use my senses. I am the creator of the experience of the art installation, it says.

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I look, listen, read the poem, close my eyes.

A breeze blows my hat brim back. I see only sun on the backs of my eyelids.

This sensation is what I seek, the feeling that the sun and warmth come with me when I go back into the house.

I open my eyes.

“Hoo!” yells a cyclist huffing up the hill I just huffed.

Time to move.

The smell of spring fills my nostrils. The smell that has comforted me, delighted me, for decades.

My mom fills our yard with it.

It brightened my desk all week during endless hours of reporting scary, heartbreaking news.

Daffodils.

In a pinon-juniper woodland, many miles from the nearest flowerbed, I smell daffodils.

It’s not the first hallucination I’ve had out here.

It will get me through another night in captivity.

Hike length: 7+ miles

Difficulty: moderate

Trail traffic: for this place, OMG

Wildlife spotted/heard: mountain chickadees, pinyon jays, crows, robins, Western wood-pewees, dead tarantula